What are we working towards? Pick up to 3 goals. I'll build your routine around these.
Your hair goals
Select up to 3
📏Length RetentionGrow and keep length
💧Moisture BalanceStop dry, brittle hair
💪Reduce BreakageStrengthen weak strands
🌿Scalp HealthHealthy scalp, healthy growth
✨Edge RegrowthRestore thinning edges
🦁Thicker HairMore volume and density
🛡️Reduce SheddingStop excessive hair fall
🌺Natural TextureDefinition and health
Dr. Tress
Two more quick ones. These help me track your progress accurately.
A little more detail
You can always update these later
That's everything I need.
Building your personalised routine...
Your dashboard will show a custom daily, weekly and monthly routine built specifically for your hair profile.
Welcome back, — 👋
Wednesday, 10 June
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I've created a personalised routine to help you reach your goals. Your routine is built specifically around your porosity, hair type and needs.
Your Recommended Routine ✨
A simple routine designed for your hair and your goals.
Current Challenge
Hair Growth Journey
Length Tracker
Visual Gallery
Your private monthly progress archive
Dr. Tress says: Take a monthly photo on the same day each month under the same lighting. Your eyes will lie to you — the camera won't. Document everything.
Before & After
Comparison Slider
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Monthly Archive
Photo Timeline
Routine Log
Track every treatment, massage and cleanse
Dr. Tress says: Consistency is your superpower. You don't need the perfect routine — you need a completed one. Log it even when it's not perfect.
Porosity is your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. It's determined by the condition of your cuticle — the outermost layer of the hair shaft, made of overlapping scale-like cells that look like roof tiles or fish scales under a microscope. How open or closed those tiles sit determines everything — what products work, what doesn't, and why your hair behaves the way it does.
Dr. Tress says: Hair porosity is not fixed. Your roots may be low porosity (your natural baseline) while your ends are high porosity (from heat, colour, or manipulation over time). Test a strand from different sections to get the full picture. And remember — porosity can shift with your hair care choices.
🧪 How to Test Your Porosity — 3 Methods
🥤
The Float Test
Drop a clean, product-free hair strand into room-temperature water. Floats: Low porosity. Sinks slowly to middle: Normal. Sinks immediately: High porosity. Wait 2–4 minutes before reading.
💦
The Spray Test
Spray water on a clean section of hair. Beads up: Low porosity. Absorbs steadily: Normal porosity. Absorbs almost instantly: High porosity.
🤏
The Slip Test
Slide two fingers from root to tip on a strand. Very smooth: Low (flat cuticle). Slightly bumpy: Normal. Rough/snags: High porosity (raised, damaged cuticle scales).
🔒
Low Porosity
Tightly sealed cuticle scales
Cuticle tiles lie perfectly flat. Water beads off. Products sit on top rather than absorbing. You need heat to open the door — without it, even the best deep conditioner just coats the outside.
Common in: Unprocessed 4c hair, West African hair types, fine hair, genetically sealed cuticles.
💧 Water beads up when you wet it
😶 Products feel sticky or waxy on hair
⏱️ Hair takes ages to fully dry
🤷 Deep conditioner seems to do nothing without heat
Your cuticle sits in the ideal state — slightly raised enough to allow moisture in at a steady pace, but not so open that it escapes quickly. Most commercial products are made for you.
Common in: Healthy, minimally processed natural hair. Healthy elasticity — stretches 30–50% before snapping.
🌊 Hair wets evenly and steadily
✅ Products absorb without excess build-up
💆 Holds moisture well between wash days
🌟 Responds well to most routines
⚠️ Heat + chemicals can shift you to high porosity
🚪
High Porosity
Raised or damaged cuticle scales with gaps
Cuticle scales are raised, lifted, or physically damaged. Moisture floods in — and escapes just as fast. Hair feels dry within hours of washing. Sealing is everything.
Common in: Chemically processed, heat-damaged, colour-treated hair. Some 4c hair is genetically high porosity.
⚡ Hair soaks up water almost instantly
😩 Dry within hours of washing
☁️ Frizzy in humidity, brittle in dry air
💔 Prone to breakage and split ends
🌧️ Absorbs products but dries out fast
📊 Quick Comparison: All Three Porosity Types
Property
Low Porosity
Normal Porosity
High Porosity
Absorption
Slow — water resists entry
Moderate — steady
Fast — instant absorption
Retention
Excellent once in
Good
Poor — escapes quickly
Heat needed?
YES — always for DC
Optional but helpful
Avoid — use cool water
Protein need
Low — protein-sensitive
Moderate — balance
High — regular protein essential
Sealing
Light sealing only
Moderate
Heavy sealing mandatory
Best method
LCO (light products)
LCO or LOC — both work
LOC with heavy sealants
Main enemy
Product build-up
Heat & chemical damage
Hygral fatigue & dryness
What is Hygral Fatigue? When high porosity hair repeatedly absorbs large amounts of water (cortex swells) then loses it rapidly (cortex shrinks), the constant expansion and contraction weakens the internal protein bonds. Over time this leads to increased porosity, elasticity loss, and breakage. The fix: pre-poo with coconut oil before every wash to reduce water uptake, and use cool water to rinse.
Hair Typing
Understanding Your Curl Type
The Andre Walker system (1–4, A–C) categorises hair by curl pattern. Knowing yours helps you understand how much moisture your scalp sebum naturally provides, how prone your hair is to tangling, and what styling techniques work best. But remember — porosity matters more than curl type for product selection.
Important: The tighter and more coiled the pattern (4a → 4c), the harder it is for scalp oils (sebum) to travel from the root down the strand. This is why coilier hair types require more external moisture application — the hair's own natural oil supply can't reach the ends efficiently. It's not that coily hair produces less sebum — it's that the sebum can't travel the spiral highway.
〰️
Type 2 — Wavy
S-shaped waves, close to scalp
2a: Fine, loose waves, easily straightened. 2b: Defined S-waves, more prone to frizz. 2c: Strong S-waves, some spiral ringlets.
Sebum travels easily down wavy strands — naturally more moisturised than coilier types. Lightweight products work best.
🌀
Type 3 — Curly
Springy ringlets & spirals
3a: Loose, large ringlets. 3b: Tighter springy ringlets, more volume. 3c: Tight corkscrew curls, dense and voluminous.
Moderate sebum travel. Benefits from regular deep conditioning and the LCO method.
🌪️
Type 4a — Coily
S-shaped coils, tightly packed
Well-defined S coils, very tight. Retains a curl pattern when wet. Significant shrinkage (50–75%). Sebum has difficulty travelling down the coils — needs consistent moisture.
Benefits from LOC/LCO method, steam, and protective styles.
⭕
Type 4b / 4c — Kinky
Z-pattern, tightly kinked coils
4b: Sharp Z-shaped bends. 4c: Extremely tight coils or no defined curl pattern, highest shrinkage (75–90%).
Most fragile hair type. Sebum barely reaches roots. Requires the most moisture, most protection, and most consistent care.
🧬 Density & Thickness — Two More Important Properties
Hair Density — How many strands per square inch
Low: Scalp visible easily. Lightweight products essential. Heavy products weigh hair flat. Medium: Standard density. Most product types work. High: Very full, thick-appearing hair. Can handle and often needs richer products and longer deep conditioning times.
Hair Width / Strand Thickness
Fine: Each strand is thin. Very fragile — avoid heavy protein and manipulation. Medium: Average width. Standard approach. Coarse: Each strand is thick and sturdy. Can handle stronger protein and heat better than fine hair. Often feels rough to the touch.
Shrinkage is not breakage! Type 4 hair can shrink 50–90% of its actual length. A strand that appears 3 inches long when dry may be 8+ inches when stretched. If you're worried about growth, always measure stretched length from root to tip on a straightened strand — not the shrunken appearance. Many naturals have significant length hidden in their coils.
The Foundation of Everything
Moisture & the LOC Method
Moisture is the most fundamental need of natural hair. The challenge isn't just adding moisture — it's retaining it. The LOC and LCO methods are layering systems designed to maximise moisture retention by applying water, oil, and cream in a specific sequence, each layer serving a distinct biological purpose.
The #1 rule: Always apply moisture products to damp or dripping wet hair — never dry hair. Water is the moisture. Products help lock it in. If you apply products to dry hair, you're just layering products over a dry shaft. The water must enter the cortex first.
💧 The LOC Method — Breaking It Down
L
Liquid
Water or water-based leave-in conditioner. This is the actual moisture — water molecules penetrating the cortex. Non-negotiable first step.
Water, Aloe vera, Leave-in conditioner
O
Oil
Natural oil — either penetrating (coconut, olive, avocado) to enter the cortex, or sealing (castor, JBCO) to lock moisture inside.
Argan, Jojoba, JBCO, Coconut, Castor
C
Cream
A heavier butter or cream that adds additional moisture, defines curls, and provides a final sealing layer over everything.
Shea butter, Curl cream, Styling butter
🔴 LOC — For High Porosity
Liquid → Oil → Cream
The oil goes on before the cream. This creates a double seal — oil locks the water in first, then the cream locks the oil in on top. Essential for high porosity hair that loses moisture through open cuticle gaps. The cream provides the final heavy barrier.
🔵 LCO — For Low & Normal Porosity
Liquid → Cream → Oil
The cream goes directly on the damp strand for maximum absorption. The oil seals last — a light layer to close everything in. Heavy oil first can block the cream from absorbing into a more sealed cuticle type.
📋 Moisture Strategies by Porosity
LOW POROSITY
• Always apply to very damp/wet hair • Use heat (steam, heat cap) for every deep conditioning session • Focus on humectant-rich, water-based products • Avoid heavy butters directly on strands — they build up fast • Clarify every 2 weeks to remove build-up
NORMAL POROSITY
• Maintain consistency — most products work well • Regular deep conditioning with optional heat • LCO or LOC both effective • Alternate moisture and protein weekly • Focus on protection to stay in this range
HIGH POROSITY
• Apply products the moment hair leaves the shower • LOC with the heaviest sealants available • In dry climates — always seal over humectants (glycerin draws from hair) • Never leave hair unsealed • ACV rinse after every wash to flatten cuticle
The greenhouse effect (baggy method): Apply a moisture-rich conditioner to damp hair, cover with a plastic cap, and sleep in it. Your body heat trapped under the cap creates a warm, humid micro-climate that gently opens even low porosity cuticles and forces moisture in. No heat tools needed. One of the most underrated moisture techniques available.
The Strength Factor
Protein & Strength
Hair is approximately 95% keratin protein. When the cuticle is damaged, protein treatments temporarily fill those gaps and reinforce the strand. But the relationship between protein and moisture is a delicate balance — too little causes mushy, over-elastic hair that breaks. Too much causes stiff, brittle hair that also breaks. The goal is both soft and strong.
The elasticity test — do this monthly: Take a wet strand of hair between two fingers. Slowly stretch it. Snaps immediately with little stretch → moisture deficiency (add moisture). Stiff and snaps without stretching → protein overload (add moisture, reduce protein). Stretches excessively and feels mushy → protein deficiency (add protein). Healthy hair stretches 30–50% and returns to its original length.
🧪 Levels of Protein Treatment
🌊
Light Protein
Every 2 weeks (high) / Monthly (others)
Rice water rinse, silk amino acids, hydrolysed protein conditioners. Strengthens without stiffening. Safe for all porosity types.
Rice water · Silk amino acids · Protein sprays
🥚
Medium Protein
Monthly / Every 2–3 weeks (high por.)
Egg masks, mayonnaise treatments, light protein packs. Rebuilds strength more actively. Always follow with moisture DC.
Egg + olive oil · Aphogee 2-min · Protein packs
💪
Hard Protein
Monthly max — high porosity only
Intensive rebuilding of the hair's internal structure. High porosity & damaged hair only. NEVER skip moisture after.
Aphogee 2-Step · Gelatin mask · Reconstructors
🔗
Bond Repair
Every 4–6 weeks — damaged hair
Targets broken disulfide bonds in the cortex — the structural root cause of high porosity. Addresses damage at its source.
Olaplex No.3 · K18 Leave-in · Bond building masks
🧬 Protein Needs by Porosity — At a Glance
LOW POROSITY — Protein Sensitive
Protein accumulates quickly on closed cuticles causing stiffness and breakage. Light protein only, once a month max. Skip hard protein entirely unless significantly damaged. Signs of overload arrive fast — act immediately with moisture.
NORMAL POROSITY — Balanced Approach
Alternate between moisture deep conditioning and light-to-medium protein treatments. One moisture treatment, then one light protein, then repeat. Perform elasticity test monthly and adjust the balance as needed.
HIGH POROSITY — Protein is Essential
Protein literally fills the cuticle gaps that cause moisture loss. Without it, moisture in = moisture immediately out. Light protein every 2 weeks, medium monthly, hard protein every 4–6 weeks for severely damaged hair.
DIY Medium Protein Treatment: Mix 2 eggs + 2 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp honey. Apply to clean, damp hair. Plastic cap for 20–30 minutes. Rinse with COOL water only — hot water cooks the egg protein into the hair (trust us, you don't want that). Follow immediately with your heaviest moisture deep conditioner. This is one of the most effective and affordable protein treatments available.
The Foundation of Hair Growth
Scalp Health
A healthy scalp is the literal foundation of healthy hair. Hair grows from follicles embedded in the scalp — if those follicles are clogged, inflamed, or malnourished, hair growth and quality will be compromised regardless of how perfect your strand routine is. You cannot out-condition a neglected scalp.
Rosemary oil vs. Minoxidil: A 2015 randomised controlled trial in SKINmed Journal directly compared rosemary oil to 2% minoxidil (Rogaine) over 6 months. They found equivalent hair count improvements — with rosemary oil producing significantly less scalp itching as a side effect. Dilute 10–15 drops in 2 tablespoons of jojoba oil and massage daily. Commit to at least 6 months.
🌱 Common Scalp Conditions & Solutions
🏗️ Product Build-Up
Most common in: Low porosity hair. Symptoms: flakes, itching, heaviness, products stop working. Fix: Clarifying shampoo every 2 weeks + ACV rinse + bentonite clay mask monthly. Avoid heavy silicones and mineral oil.
❄️ Dry, Flaky Scalp
Most common in: High porosity, very low moisture routines. Fine white flakes, tight feeling. Fix: Regular scalp oiling with jojoba + 2 drops tea tree. Drink more water. Add scalp massage to daily routine.
🍄 Dandruff / Seborrhoeic Dermatitis
Note: This is a fungal condition — not dry scalp. Yellowish, greasy flakes, often itchy. Fix: Tea tree oil, pyrithione zinc shampoos, neem oil treatments. See a dermatologist for persistent cases.
🔥 Scalp Inflammation / Traction Alopecia
Caused by: Tight styles, harsh chemicals, or allergens. Symptoms: tenderness, redness, edge thinning. Fix: Loosen styles. Anti-inflammatory oils (neem, lavender, chamomile). Avoid tight braids at the hairline.
🌿 The Ayurvedic Approach — Key Growth Herbs
Top Growth Herbs
Bhringraj — "King of herbs for hair." Stimulates dormant follicles, reduces fall. Brahmi — Thickens shafts, nourishes roots, reduces cortisol-linked loss. Amla — Rich in Vitamin C; strengthens protein bonds, combats greying. Ashwagandha — Reduces cortisol — a primary driver of hormonal hair loss.
Scalp Health Herbs
Neem — Anti-fungal + antibacterial; clears scalp infections blocking growth. Fenugreek — Rich in nicotinic acid & protein; strengthens roots, reduces shedding. Hibiscus — Stimulates dormant follicles, adds slip and shine. Shikakai — Natural low-pH cleanser that preserves moisture.
Clinically Validated EOs
Rosemary — Comparable to minoxidil in 6-month clinical trial (SKINmed, 2015). Peppermint — Vasodilation; most follicles in anagen phase in 2014 study vs. minoxidil. Cedarwood — Balances scalp oils; used in alopecia areata studies. Clary Sage — Balances DHT. (Avoid during pregnancy.)
Scalp Massage Protocol: A 2016 study in ePlasty found that just 4 minutes of daily scalp massage over 24 weeks produced a statistically significant increase in hair strand thickness. Use fingertip pads only (never nails). Apply 3–5 drops of diluted essential oils (rosemary + peppermint + cedarwood in jojoba). Cover the entire scalp in slow, deliberate circular motions — front, sides, crown, back. Do this daily for 3–6 months minimum.
The Real Cause of Frizz
Frizz & Elasticity
Frizz is not random — it is a structural response to moisture imbalance between the hair shaft and the surrounding air. When the cuticle is raised, the hair absorbs ambient humidity unevenly, causing the hair shaft to swell in patches rather than uniformly. This uneven swelling is the physical cause of frizz. Understanding this changes everything about how you treat it.
Elasticity is the true measure of hair health. It tells you whether your protein-moisture balance is correct. Healthy hair should stretch 30–50% of its length when wet before snapping. This is more useful than any other indicator. Test it monthly on a wet strand — it tells you exactly what your hair needs right now.
☁️ Frizz by Porosity Type
Low Porosity Frizz
Relatively rare because the flat cuticle resists absorbing ambient humidity. When it occurs, it is usually due to product build-up disrupting the cuticle. Fix: Clarify, then use lightweight smoothing products like flaxseed gel or aloe vera.
Normal Porosity Frizz
Moderate and manageable. Responds well to sealing oils and light creams. Anti-humidity gels (flaxseed, aloe vera) applied over the final style are highly effective.
High Porosity Frizz
The most challenging. ACV rinses after washing temporarily flatten the cuticle. Heavy sealing creams and oils reduce what the strand can absorb from the air. T-shirt drying instead of terry cloth reduces friction-induced frizz.
💪 Diagnosing Your Elasticity
✅ Healthy Elasticity
Wet strand stretches significantly (30–50%) and returns to original coil without breaking. Hair is both soft AND strong. Keep doing what you're doing.
💧 Snaps immediately, little stretch
Moisture deficiency. Hair has no flexibility because it is too dry. Add moisture treatments immediately. Deep condition with heat. LOC method after every wash.
😵 Stretches too much, feels mushy
Protein deficiency. The cortex has no structural backbone. Hair is over-elastic. Add a light protein treatment this wash day. Keep adding until snap returns.
🪨 Stiff, rigid, snaps without stretch
Protein overload. Too much protein has made the shaft rigid. Stop protein immediately. Add heavy moisture treatments. It can take 2–4 wash days to correct.
🔬 The Science of Frizz — Why Humidity Does What It Does
Natural hair contains hygroscopic proteins — proteins that attract and absorb water molecules from the air. In high humidity, these proteins swell as they absorb moisture, but because the swelling is uneven (more in areas where the cuticle is raised), the hair shaft expands irregularly — this physical irregular swelling is frizz. In very dry air, the opposite happens: the hygroscopic proteins lose moisture to the dry environment, and the strand becomes brittle and contracts unevenly. The solution in both cases is the same: seal the cuticle (with ACV and oils) so neither humidity nor dry air can interact with the internal protein structure directly.
Recovery Mode
Repair & Recovery
Damaged hair cannot be truly repaired — the cuticle cells that are broken or missing cannot regenerate. What we call "repair" is really temporary reinforcement combined with strategic protection of the healthy new growth coming in. The goal is to keep the damaged strand intact long enough for the healthy growth to take over.
Transitioning tip: If you're transitioning from chemically treated to natural hair, your ends are high porosity (damaged) while your roots are likely low or normal porosity (natural baseline). You will need to manage two porosity types at once. Focus moisture and protein treatments on the lengths and ends, and use lighter products at the roots.
🔧 Repair Strategies — In Order of Intensity
✂️ Strategic Trimming
Trimming 6mm (¼ inch) every 6–8 weeks removes the oldest, most porous, most fragile portion of the strand. Ends are where 90% of breakage begins. Removing them regularly is one of the most effective length retention strategies — it sounds counterintuitive but works.
🔗 Bond Repair (K18, Olaplex)
Chemical processing breaks the disulfide bonds that hold the cortex together. Bond repair treatments (Olaplex uses bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate; K18 uses a bio-mimetic peptide) actively reconnect these broken bonds — addressing damage at its structural origin, not just coating it. Use every 4–6 weeks for damaged hair.
💪 Regular Protein Treatments
Protein physically fills cuticle gaps, reducing environmental damage and preventing further cortex exposure. For damaged or transitioning hair, combine light protein every 2 weeks with medium protein monthly to maintain structural integrity while the healthy growth comes in.
🛡️ Protective Strategies During Recovery
🧺 Protective Styling
Physical protection of the fragile ends is mandatory during recovery. Box braids, twists, cornrows, and wigs that tuck away ends dramatically reduce day-to-day manipulation and friction. 4–8 week protective style periods with thorough wash and conditioning breaks between each style.
🚫 Stop the Damage Source
Reducing or eliminating heat styling and chemical treatments allows the protein-moisture balance to stabilise and the cuticle to function optimally on the new growth. The 1-Year No Heat Challenge (see Challenges section) is designed specifically for this recovery period.
🌿 Pre-Poo Before Every Wash
Applying coconut or olive oil to dry hair before washing coats the cuticle and reduces the amount of water the damaged strand absorbs. This prevents hygral fatigue — the swelling and shrinking cycle that weakens the internal protein bonds of already-fragile high porosity hair.
📅 Recovery Timeline — What to Expect
4–6
WEEKS
Protein-moisture balance begins to stabilise. Shedding reduces. Detangling becomes easier. Hair feels noticeably different — softer and stronger simultaneously.
3–6
MONTHS
New growth (healthy, natural porosity) becomes more visible at the roots. The difference between healthy new growth and damaged ends is clearly visible. Length retention improves measurably.
12–24
MONTHS
For most people, the majority of damaged hair has been replaced by healthy growth. Full recovery timeline depends on original damage severity and trim frequency.
The Protective Style length retention formula: Hair grows ~1.25 cm per month. In a 90-day protective style with proper care, that's ~3.75 cm of growth. Without protective styling, breakage typically erases 1–2 cm of that. Most naturals report retaining 4–7.5 cm in a 90-day protective style period — compared to 1–2 cm without. The math is clear. Protection = length.
The Apothecary
77 ingredients — oils, herbs, butters, clays & more. Click any card for full details.
Dr. Tress says: Your ingredient list is highlighted based on your porosity. Green border = your allies. Red border = tread carefully. Science first, trends never.
